How to explore Chapter 9

In this chapter, we explore the ritual of Hōjicha ほうじ茶 , or roasted tea leaves, a comforting tea ritual traditional from Japan.

Below, you will find an audio file, written theories, and a video demonstrating the ritual of Hōjicha.

Hōjicha, the ritual of roasted leaves

You may have had the chance to taste Hōjicha in a tea house somewhere, and instantly felt transported by the comforting experience. The ritual of Hōjicha is among my favorite in winter.

When I was in Japan with my teachers, at one of the farm where I source tea, I had the occasion to learn the ritual and process of roasting tea leaves. This ritual is done with the help of a lovely vessel called Horoku, on open flame. The Horoku is also traditionally used for roasting nuts or seeds in Japan.

But before we go any further into the ritual and process of roasting tea leaves, or before explore the Horoku, let’s take a moment to explore the story of Hōjicha and how it came to be born.

The story behind the ritual of Hōjicha

When I was in Japan, on Kyushu island (the southern of the main islands), I have met a lovely family who have been producing tea for many generations. The tea “plantation” of this family today feels more like a forest, since the trees have been planted a very long time ago, and the vegetations, plants and ecosystem thrives with very minimal maintenance. They produce a very small quantity of tea every year cycle, mostly Sencha and Hojicha. To live on an island makes you realize how important it is to honor the limited resources available. The main dedication of this beautiful tea farm is to produce organic vibrant Sencha, and with the leftovers leaves, they produce Hojicha, so there is absolutely no waste. I was introduced to the ritual of Hojicha, the way of roasted tea, by the lovely family of this tea farm.

Hojicha was produced in the 1920’, by a tea producer who wished to do the most of the leftover leaves, stems, stalks, and twigs by roasting them over charcoal, and transforming their way. It became a unique form of tea ritual, offering beautiful nourishing quality.

Hojicha, the process

The harvest season in Japan happens 88 days after Risshun (the beginning of Spring, according to the lunisolar calendar). The first day of harvest is called Hachijuhachiya, usually around end of April or early May, depending on the year. The leaves are harvested for the trees, and then steamed (for 15 seconds) directly after being harvested, to prevent oxidation to occur, so the leaves can remain vibrant and green. The steaming process allow the leaves to preserve their fragrance and nutrients. Then the leaves will go into their rolling and drying process. The leaves will then be sorted into different categories ; sencha, bancha or kukicha.

To produce the Hojicha, the leaves will go into a roasted process, at high heat, during which the leaves take on a brownish color and savory comforting fragrance. The high heat also reduce the amount of caffeine (yang force) content of the leaves, transforming them into a more yin tea that can be appreciated at any time of the day.

焙じ茶, ほうじ茶

Essentially, any green tea leaves (sencha, bancha, kukicha) can be used to produce Hojicha. In the farm where we source our Hojicha at WAOTEA, the family love to produce it with any leftover leaves from the Spring production, usually Sencha leaves leftover.

It is a creative process serving to prevent waste and to honor the leaves by transforming them into something different. Sencha carries the elemental wisdom of Wood. But through the roasting process, the Wood transform into Fire. Hojicha carries the spirit of the Shen, the wisdom of Yin Fire, inviting calm, focus and nourishing presence.

The Ritual of Hojicha

Tools for the ritual

• Tea leaves, preferably a Japanese green tea, either Sencha, Bancha or Kukicha

• Horoku, a side handle clay vessel serving to roast tea leaves or seeds in Japan (you can also simply use a nonstick pan instead)

• Source of heat, either charcoal stove or gas stove

• Kettle to boil your water on the source of heat ; either a Japanese tetsubin (Japanese cast-iron kettle) or any other type of kettle

• Steeping vessel : Yokode Kyusu (a vessel with side handle, traditional to Japanese tea culture today)

• Tea cups, the same size that you would use for Senchado

• A tea leaves holder, made of clay, to pour and present the freshly roasted leaves

• Chabu (tea runner), made of bamboo or other material. It is the soil of your ritual, on which the vessels and tools are placed

• Chakin (small linen or hemp cloth) to assist you if the Horoku is to hot to be handled after the roasting process

• Optional : Coasters for the tea cups, Vase with fresh flowers

Flow of the ritual

• I recommend to be sitting on the ground, close to the Earth (feel free to use any variations)

• All containers and tools should be ready in front of you

• Your tea leaves can be presented in a tea holder vessel made of clay

• Start by igniting your source of heat

• Add your tea leaves into your Horoku

• Then bring your Horoku on top of the source of heat

• You will want to be very cautious and mindful during the roasting process, to make sure that you are not burning your leaves

• I recommend to hold the handle of your horoku during most of the process, so you can remove it slightly from the source of heat to “shake the leaves” in the vessel constantly, to prevent them from burning (use a cloth if the handle is getting too hot)

• It should take anytime between 3 to 9 minutes, depending on the source of heat. It may be recommended to set the fire to low if you are using a gas stove

• When the leaves are ready, they will be looking brown (anything from light to dark brown) and you should be able to notice delicious comforting aromas of roasted leaves (but not of burned bread)

• From there, with the cloth, hold the bottom of the Horoku with one hand, the handle with the other hand, and transfer the roasted tea leaves into the tea holder vessel, from the handle (the leaves will come out from the handle, not from the top)

• Let the leaves sit for a moment

• And transfer the leaves into your Yokode Kyusu (side handle tea pot) or any other type of teapot that you will be practicing with

• The next step will be to boil the water of your kettle on the same source of heat (add the water in the kettle, ignite the source of heat and let it boil slowly)

• When the water is done boiling, remove the kettle from the heat, and place it next to you (it can eventually sit on a candle warmer)

• Pour water into your Yokode Kyusu (side handle tea pot) or the teapot that you have for this ritual and let the water and leaves infuse for 15-20 seconds

• Pour the tea into the cups, and receive your beautiful Hojicha in silence

• As you are receiving your tea, take a moment to notice the Qi of the tea, the way it moves you from within

• Hojicha carries the wisdom of Fire element and may be felt around the core, the heart, as a movement of expansion

• Enjoy your exploration

Hōjicha, the ritual of roasted leaves

May this ritual allow you to explore the nourishing wisdom of Yin Fire.

TEA COURSE PACKAGE

There is no tea included in the tea package for this chapter. For this ritual, we recommend to roast any older Japanese green teas that may have lost their freshness, like a Sencha, Bencha, Kukicha or Kamairicha.