Chapter 2

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How to explore Chapter 2

In this chapter, we will be exploring the tea plant, in her natural environment. We will explore the different types of teas, the many forms tea can take — as a result of the way the leaves can transform themselves; from green, yellow, white, oolong, red (black) or fermented tea. We will explore the ecology of the plant and how to be responsible when sourcing tea. Finally we will explore the health benefits of tea and how to source our water.

You may want to start this chapter by listening to the audio theory “Chapter 2 - Theory” below, then support your exploration through the written theory and photos. In this chapter, we will deepen our exploration of tea leaves steeped in a bowl. You will find a meditation, at the end of this chapter.

TEA PLANT

One of the most surprising mystery uncovered about tea is how Nature has the potential to transform the leaves of the tea plant.

Throughout history, very often by accident, or with a strong capacity to listen to Nature, the people of tea discovered how the plant could take many forms. When the leaves are picked, they are essentially green — before they start oxidizing. Through this learning journey with tea, the people of tea came to the realization that the leaves could not only oxidize and wither, but also age and ferment beautifully — giving birth to a myriad different types of tea.

Today, we can think of 6 “main” forms or colors of tea ; green, yellow, white, oolong, red & fermented tea. All coming from the very same plant — a plant known today by the name Camellia Sinensis.

The process of transformation that the leaves will undergo, from the moment the leaves are picked from the tree, until they find the cup — will carry their special quality, essence and form.

The original plant found in the ancient forest of Yunnan, China, was known by the name Camellia Taliensis — a large wild tree endemic of Yunnan, who used to be picked by the local people to produce pu’er in ancient time, now endangered due to over-picking and overpopulation.

The original tea plant, the Grand-Mother tree,

is supposed to be over 4000 years old. It is also known, in China, by the names “Yunnan large leaf tree” or “wild tree” or “Dali tree” – or in Chinese “Dà yè zhòng” 大叶种

While the character 茶 (chá) is used for “tea”,

the character 树 (shù) refers to cultivated tree (made of 木 mù for “wood” or “tree” + 对 duì for “to match together”).

Due to the cultivation of the tea plant in many areas of the world today, the tea plant was able to adapt itself in different climates that its original homeland, giving birth to two “main varieties” of the cultivated tree Camellia Sinensis — Camellia Sinensis variety Sinensis & Camellia Sinensis variety Assamica.

Camellia Sinensis, variety Assamica

— Mother tea tree (larger than the other variety)

— Can grow up to 10-15 meters

— Also called “the large leaf tree” or Dà yè zhòng 大叶种

— Leaves can be around 20 cm, supple, shiny

— Produces beautiful flowers

— Sensitive to drought and frost

— Ideal climate is a humid, monsoon region (Assam, South West of China, Laos, Vietnam)

Camellia Sinensis,variety Sinensis

— Smaller cultivated tree (can grow up to 6 meters)

— Smaller than the Mother tree, but more resistant to drought and frost

— Also called “the small leaf tree”

— Flowering tree

— Can be found in many areas of the world

Today, natural or human-made mutations are responsible for generating around 400-500 different cultivars, or hybrid versions of the original plant — as a result of being replanted and cultivated in many regions of the world.

In the Mountains of South West China, and beyond, we can still find forests of wild tea trees today. However, the fragility and exhaustion of the land’s soil can be felt. We have to drink less tea, and source it from people who can listen to the land’s heart beat…

In the 19th century, british colonizers discovered wild Camellia Sinensis trees in the region of Assam, India. They were from the Assamica variety, and very similar to the variety found in the south of China. The original people of Assam were using the leaves of the tea tree since at least the 10th century for medicinal purposes. But due to the impact of colonization and cultivation of imported (some would stay stolen) tea trees, from seeds taken from different regions of China, the original trees of Assam became endangered and are practically all gone today.

However, the region of Yunnan, south of China, is still home to about 37,000 acres of semi-wild tea trees of more than a century old.

Camellia Sinensis flower, Japan

Camellia Sinensis, seed

Wild tea tree from South West China

The Ecology of Camellia Sinensis

Climate

The tea tree thrives in an environment with high levels of humidity and moisture, with regular rainfall, and dampness. High altitude is ideal, since the temperature is usually more gentle and clouds are usually present in the mountains to nourish the trees. Trees growing in high altitude are also protected from the risk of pests and diseases, and therefore they are naturally organic. Soil and air should stay between 10C to 25C preferably.

Humidity

The tea tree loves to receive at least 1500 mm of rain every year. It also loves the clouds and mist in the mountains. The land where the tea tree grows usually has an inclination (not on a flat surface), so the water doesn’t stagnate and can constantly flow and nourish the roots. A climate of 70-90% humidity is ideal.

Frost

Young tea bushes are sensitive to frost. Certain hybrid versions of the plant Camellia Sinensis are more resilient and can adapt to certain conditions.

Shadow and Light

A balanced amount of both shadow and light is needed for the tea tree to be well nourished. The light of the sun plays an important role in the development of essential oil, giving the flavors and aromas of tea. The plant needs sun daily. But natural shadow is also needed, to protect the tea tree from receiving too much sun energy or too much wind energy. Usually, other large trees are surrounding the tea trees, acting as a natural shade structure, filtering the sunlight and protecting from the wind. The shadow is helping to retain moisture during the dry season. Falling leaves from the surrounding trees also nourish the soil.

Soil

Tea tree loves to grow from acidic soil, sometimes created from volcanic ashes. The acidity of the soil is permitting the tree to be absorbing the nutrients and minerals. The soil also needs to be loose and permeable, so the root system can grow and expand, and the water can flow constantly.

Minerals

The soil needs to be containing certain minerals, like Potassium, Magnesium, Zinc and Copper.

Altitude

The tea plant can grow to an altitude of 2000m above sea level. Trees growing in higher altitude are usually protected from the risk of pests, diseases - more vibrant and naturally organic.

Tea Cultivation

The tea tree can be cultivated either by cutting or seeding.

To cut a piece of an original tea tree to replant in new soil will offer a tree of the same quantity and quality, but if the soil and the environment is different, the tree might not survive. To replant a seed of an original tree in new soil will offer a tree with more resilience and capacity to adapt, but it is no longer the exact copy of the tree, and therefore it is considered a new varietal, a cultivar, an hybrid version of the original tree.

A young cultivated tea bush is very delicate and has to be planted in a nursery and nourished for 2 years, until it can be transplanted in the tea plantation. From there, the root system has to settle for 5 years until the tree is old enough to grow leaves with enough life force, until they are ready to be harvested to produce tea. Most cultivated tea trees can produce tea for only 50 years, since most of them are over-picked for large-scale production. If a tea tree is cultivated responsibly and consciously, following the way of nature, the same way that original ancient trees would be harvested, they can be producing tea for more than 100 years.

Responsible Tea Sourcing

WHEN THE TEA PLANT IS ORIGINALLY FROM THE LAND

When sourcing tea from a region where the tea tree is endemic of the land, where wild or ancient tea trees can be found, we look for small size family owned businesses that have been cultivating the plant, from the same land, for many generations — or from an authentic tea region where the plant has been naturally present since the dawn of time. We find reassuring when the tea farmers are only able to produce a small amount at a time, at a gentle pace, confirming that their intention is not to do large-scale production, but to listen to the way of nature and by respecting the land and resources. Small farms and producers usually do not have the money for pesticides or certifications, and have been simply cultivating the plant naturally, following Nature’s rhythm, since the dawn of time. Working with farmers with limited quantity is reassuring that it is done in a responsible way — solely relaying on trusted relationship. Spending time building a relationship with the farmers, learning their stories, witnessing their daily routine, communing with the land — is all essentially part of the journey of sourcing tea.

Unfortunately, in modern times, a lot of tea farmers are struggling to survive, and would rather sale their land for large - scale production and go work in the city. In most cases, the land may risk to become drained from over - production, and a lot of the original trees of the region will be cut to plant a larger quantity of tea trees, to produce more tea. Some may harvest the leaves all year, never allow the trees to rest… which may have for effect to deplete the tea trees.

Most organic certification in China doesn’t mean much, besides being a costly title only available to large - scale plantations not necessarily following a respectful and natural way to connect to the plants. Most farmers in China from authentic tea regions (working with the land since the dawn of time) do not care about organic certifications, and couldn’t care less about unnatural and poisonous ways to relate to the tea trees. They simply naturally produce tea, hand picked, with dedication, listening to nature and following the same way they have always known.

At WAOTEA, most of our teas do not come from “tea plantations”. Most of our teas are coming from trees that were never “planted” but simply wild trees indigenous to the land.

WHEN THE TEA PLANT IS NOT ORIGINALLY FROM THE LAND

When sourcing tea from a region where the tea tree is not endemic to the land (like Japan, for example), since it was brought by humans, it is important to remember the history of how the tea plant came to the land, and source tea in regions where the tea plant have been growing for a long time, where the soil is rich of the proper nutrients, and the trees are secluded,

away from any cities, cars or air pollution.

Small size productions are reassuring and confirm how gentle and careful the people carrying the leaves may be with tending to the plant and land — essentially how responsible and attentive they are.

At WAOTEA, we love to source our Japanese teas from farmers only harvesting the leaves of their plants once a year, in spring or early summer, when the life force is strong. Only harvesting the leaves once in the year can protect the trees and allow them to carry leaves that will feel more “alive”.

We also have learned how important is it to spend time with farmers and producers, to listen to their stories and to discover their tea practice — which says a lot about their relationship to the tea plant.

Transformation of the Leaves :

the different Types of Tea

The tea tree experiences different stages during the year cycle, from dormant-hibernating during winter to recharge and absorb proper Qi (life force) and minerals from the water, in the Earth, so the tree can rise during the phase of growth, spring, and offer its full potential. The ideal time to harvest the leaves and buds is through spring and summer, where the life force is strong. We typically harvest the 2 first leaves and buds from each branch of the tree to produce tea. Sometimes, we also harvest the 3-4 first leaves and buds, but any leaves below that point are too old and bitter. The first harvest of the year, the first flush, is done in spring. Below we will explore the different steps of transformation of the leaves to produce the different types of tea.

Green Tea

none oxidized leaves

Green tea is considered the healthiest tea in the world, especially Japanese green tea. Due to the steaming process, they have the highest content of antioxidants, amino acids, gaba and l-theanine. Green tea used to be steamed in China in ancient times, and still steamed in certain regions today.

Deactivating oxidation : The leaves are either pan-roasted or steamed very quickly, to “fix the color” and stop the enzyme oxidase, responsible for the oxidation.
Roll and Shape : We roll and shape the leaves, either manually or with a machine, either into balls, twists or long sticks. Every region has its own method. Every type of green tea has its own way and unique shape.
Drying : In different ways, depending on the region. The leaves will be either dried naturally, or in a large dryer, until the leaves are containing 5-6% of water only. We make sure to keep a small amount of water, because water is life, and all we want is to dry the leaves enough for them to be preserved and to return to life in the vessels when we prepare tea.
When the leaves are dried, they are sometimes shaken in a rotary drum, and packed.

Oolong Tea

semi oxidized leaves

Oolong are semi-oxidized teas. Certain oolong, like gaba oolong with light oxidation, contain a high concentration of Gaba and amino acids.

Withering : For a few hours, under the sun or in a cool breezy room, to allow the oxidation process to be initiated.
Shake in bamboo basket to accelerate oxidation
Oxidation : left on their own in a climate controlled environment (usually hot) where the leaves turn progressively darker due to the oxidation. The chlorophyll will break down and release tannins, playing an important role in defining the flavors. Certain regions prefer oolong of lighter oxidation (5-50%) and other regions prefer oolong of higher oxidation (50-90%).
Deactivating oxidation : The leaves are pan-roasted very quickly, to “fix the color” and stop the enzyme oxidase, responsible for the oxidation, when the leaves obtained the desired level of oxidation.
Rolling and shaping the leaves, either by hand or with machine, to the desired shape. Every region and type of oolong has its own way.
Drying, in different ways depending on the region
Ready to be packed

Red Tea

fully oxidized leaves

Red tea is what we call “black tea” in the west, due to the full oxidation of the leaves. In China, we refer to “red tea”, due to the redfish color of the infusion. We can use both the leaves and buds to produce red tea.

Withering : the first step is to let the leaves-buds wither under the sun or in a cool breezy room for a few hours, to activate the enzyme oxidaze
Rolling and Shaping : then we roll and shape the leaves-buds in the desired shape, either by hand or with a machine
Oxidation : left on their own in a climate controlled environment (hot) where the leaves turn progressively darker. Red tea will undergo a complete process of oxidation, of 90-100%.
Deactivating oxidation : The leaves are either pan-roasted very quickly, to “fix the color” and stop the enzyme oxidase, responsible for the oxidation, when the leaves obtained complete oxidation.
Drying, in different ways, depending on the region
Ready to be packed

Yellow Tea

gently oxidized leaves

Yellow tea used to be reserved for the Emperor. Traditionally, yellow tea was rare, made only from buds, harvested from a sacred mountain of Hunan province. Today it is easier to find yellow tea produced from different regions of China, and beyond. There is a legend that yellow tea can dance in the Gaiwan when infusing, rising up to the surface and sinking down 3 times, which gives the tea an enchanting quality.

Deactivating oxidation : the leaves are steamed, to fix the color and deactivate the enzyme oxidase
Rolling into long needles
Leaves-buds will be wrapped in a piece of cloth and left to rest for 24 hours. From there, they will turn yellow.
Brief drying process
Ready to be packed and honored

White Tea

withered leaves

To produce white teas, the leaves or buds are picked early in the season of spring, when they are delicate and young. White tea is almost untouched, only transformed in the most natural way. They have similar health benefits than green tea.

Withering and Drying : Under the sun or in a cool breezy room for 2-3 days.
Leave and buds of white tea are yielding to the way of nature to be transform, gently with patience
A slight natural oxidation will occur
Ready to be packed

Hei Cha

Post fermented dark leaves

The most vast category of tea, which includes Pu’er, Liu Bao, Liu An, Fu Zhuan, Zang Cha, etc. They are historic teas, initially produced for trading on the tea horse road (Chamadao). Japan and Korea are also producing their own types of Hei Cha. In Yunnan, China, there is Pu’er cha, a type of Hei Cha that can be divided into two categories : Sheng Pu’er and Shu Pu’er.

Sheng Pu’er

Raw young tea undergoing the fermentation process naturally, aging with time.

Withering, under the sun, to soften the leaves
Deactivating oxidation : Pan-roasted or steamed, to deactivate the enzyme oxidase and to preserve the vitality
Shaping: By hands or with a machine, to shape the leaves and remove excess moisture
Sun-Drying : slowly, gently, under the sun
From there, we obtain the “Maocha”, which is the primary tea, or raw tea, before it undergoes a natural aging process.
Leaves are either let loose, or they can be compressed into bricks of different shapes. The compression can be done either manually or with a machine.
To let a Sheng Pu’er age properly, it has to be stored in an environment with controlled humidity, with neutral smell and with a lot of fresh breeze.

Shu Pu’er

Ripe post fermented tea that undergoes an accelerated fermentation process called Wò Duī, or “wet pilling” in english.

Same first steps than for Sheng Pu’er (Withering, Deactivating oxidation, Shaping, Sun-Drying)
When we obtain the Maocha, we then proceed to the Wò Duī process
Leaves are spread in layers on the ground, in a room kept at a constant temperature, and spread with hot water, then covered with a sheet, so the temperature inside the piles rise up, causing microorganisms to multiply. The leaves are fermenting this way for 2-3 months.
Then the leaves are either compressed into a brick or let loose, and drying on a bamboo shelf for 15 days.

Other types of Hei Cha in China

Fu Zhuan, San Jian and Qian Liang cha from Hunan province
Liu Bao cha from Guangxi province
Liu An cha from Anhui province
Lu Bian cha from Sichuan province
Qing Zhuan cha from Hubei province
Zang cha from Tibet

Terms to remember

Gushu tea 古树 : Gushu is for “Wild ancient tree”. They are tall, deeply rooted, carrying important wisdom. Gushu tea are usually offering a more profound experience, and highly valued. Gushu tea comes from trees that are more than 100 years old.

Lao shu tea : Lao “old” and Shu “tree”. Similar to Gushu tea, Laoshu tea are leaves harvested from ancient and wild camellia sinensis tree. The difference between both is that the lao shu are usually trimmed and maintained. Lao shu tea also comes from trees that are more than 100 years old.

MingQian tea : When the tea leaves are harvest before Qingming festival, a traditional Chinese festival falling on the first day of the fifth solar term of the traditional lunisolar calendar - which is the 15th day following the Spring Equinox, usually the beginning of April. So MingQian tea are the “first flush” or “spring tea” and usually considered to be the tea harvest of the highest quality, due to the strong life force of the leaves and buds in spring. The buds are usually tender, offering a beautiful fresh experience.

Gongting tea : “Gongting” could be translate by “Emperor’s Court”. We refer to that term when the tea is made from very young tea buds and tender leaves from ancient tea trees, in other terms, the buds and leaves that used to be reserved to the “emperor’s court”, due to their high vibrant quality.

Composition of Tea

There are Yin and Yang forces in tea.

Yang force : the Alkaloid called Theine, entering your meridians and stimulating the movement of Qi, life force, unlocking stagnation and nourishing the organs, sending the energy where your body is needing it
Yin forces : an amino acid called L-Theanine, known to promote calm in the central nervous system. It is more present in non-oxidized tea, like green tea. GABA is also present in tea, another yin force, which is the principal inhibitory neurotransmitter in the central nervous system. GABA is more present in GABA cha (a unique type of tea that we will explore in chapter 3) and in green tea or non-oxidized tea.

Polyphenols - Antioxidants

The most powerful polyphenol in tea is called EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), belonging to the flavonoid phytochemicals called catechins, helping to prevent free radicals from damaging the cells and inhibiting a variety of cancers.

Minerals and Vitamins

In your cup, you can find Vitamin B, Potassium, Magnesium, and Calcium.

Sourcing Water for Tea

According to Lu Yu, “Water is the Mother of Tea”.

Lu Yu is the author of the first book on tea “Classic of Tea”.

Tea is a gift from the heaven sky (Water) infusing with a gift of the Earth (Leaves).

Together, they give birth to tea.

So water is just as important as the leaves, for tea.

The ideal water would be the water collected from the Heaven, either snow or rain.

If you can find clean fresh snow or rain, in nature, away from any city, this can be a wonderful way to connect to your tea practice. Simply melt and boil the snow, or collect and boil the rain.

Another option is to source Water from a fresh spring. To fetch your water from Nature, from a beautiful spring, is a beautiful way to incorporate the life force of nature in your practice.

Sadly water coming from a tap has lost its life force and connection with nature.

We will learn further in the course how to pour your water in a mindful way to recreate the natural movement of water just like in nature.

But at least, it is important to find a way to filter your water, to remove calcium, chlorine, and toxins.

Bamboo charcoal is a simple way to purify your water. You can add a stick in your water, in a glass container, to purify your water overnight. There are also many good options of filtration systems on the market.

Tea Exploration

STEEPING TEA LEAVES IN A BOWL

I invite you to boil your water, get yourself some tea leaves and a bowl, to flow into this ritual with me.

TEA COURSE PACKAGE

If you are supporting your practice with the tea course package, for this chapter, we are exploring Upekkha Dianhong cha, a red tea from the west of Yunnan province, southern China. The production of dianhong cha is relatively new (20th century) but the plantations where this tea grows are located in one of the most ancient tea regions of the world, in the Lincang ancient tea forest of Yunnan. The trees from which the leaves of this tea were harvested are surrounded by centuries old tea trees.

Upekkha is an invitation to meditate on the essence of equanimity, evenness of mind, to find the courage to open the eyes beyond what the eyes can see, to gaze upon reality, while un-attached to the myriad ways that life may be moving us.

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